[caption id="attachment_249" align="aligncenter" width="550"] From right, Grace Vasami, Gino Vasami, Tony Vasami and his partner Maja Rzeczycka and daughter Maria[/caption]

A passion for good food and a love of the Welsh countryside and its people are the driving force behind an Italian family-run restaurant on the outskirts of Ffostrasol, near Llandysul in Ceredigion.

Gino Vasami, who farms 110 acres at Rhydgoch farm, Ffostrasol, converted the old milking parlour and set up the La Calabria restaurant for his son Tony in November 2003.

Gino's father Antonio was captured by the British in the siege of Tobruk, North Africa, and brought to prisoner-of-war camp near Ffostrasol at Henllan. While in captivity Antonio worked on farms in Ceredigion, falling in love with the land and its people.

On his release he went back to Italy for one year but returned to Ceredigion with his family to farm in 1946. Antonio purchased Hill View farm for £1,000 and started off with just 18 acres and four milking cows. Over the generations the family has gone from strength to strength and expanded the family business to three holdings.

Tony and Gino farm in partnership with Tony Hack and his wife Arlene, of nearby Glasfryn farm and, using their own milk, the family produce ice cream following an old Italian family recipe for the restaurant. They have established over 20 flavours by now.

All of the produce from the farm is used in the restaurant with the animals being taken for slaughter in Tregaron. Gino's great nephew, Steffan Hack, has also purchased some Charollais sheep whose lambs will be on the restaurant menu by Easter next year.

In the Summer months the family also grow herbs and vegetables in the garden that are used in the restaurant. They include chilli peppers and artichokes.

"When my son Tony came back to live in Wales after working for big chain hotels in London, he helped me on the farm but I could tell that farming was not really in his heart so I asked him what he wanted to do and he really wanted his own restaurant," said Gino.

"So we sold Hill View farm in 2000 and invested the money in the restaurant. I converted the old parlour on my own and only sought help with the roof.

"It took me about three years to finish the job. It is the best thing we ever did and we have just celebrated our fifth anniversary."

Gino was four years old when he came to live in Ceredigion and had to return to Italy for his military service. It was during this time that he learnt how restaurants were being run in Calabria, a southern region of Italy, and this is how he runs the restaurant together with his wife Grace, 55, and son Tony.

"The way things grow in Calabria, it is with sun. You can taste it, you can smell it. The food is just great. I wanted to bring this passion and the flavours of Italy to Wales for a long time," said Gino.

"The restaurant is going from strength to strength but if it weren't for the local people here in Wales we would not be able to keep the place going. Their support since we opened the restaurant has just been fantastic.

"I go back to Italy once a year as my wife Grace still has family over there but my heart and way of life is here in Wales. Wales is just fantastic, apart from the weather."

Tony Vasami previously worked at the Regents Park Marriott Hotel in Swiss Cottage in London prior to 2003 for four years as food and beverage manager looking after the bar, restaurant, room service and banqueting departments.

He said: "It was a busy 305-bedroom hotel in the heart of London. As it was close to the Emirates Stadium we had many football teams staying there like Man Utd, Blackburn, Newcastle Utd and also the England cricket team when they played their test matches at Lords. it was an amazing experience but I wanted to come back to Wales.

"Before we opened the restaurant I had help from Farming Connect to prepare a business plan and obtain valuable information about the tourist economy in West Wales.

"The interesting thing for me at the time was that, although the standard of tourist accommodation in West Wales was high, places to eat were very poor and the first choice of restaurant to visit more than any other was an Italian.

"As there were none in West Wales at the time, I thought I had definitely found a little niche in the market. With my knowledge of the industry and my mother's cooking skills I thought we would do well."

Gino added: "My wife Grace is the driving force in the kitchen and she does all of the cooking. The restaurant can now seat 70 people and it is because of her cooking people come here.

"The sauce is the most important thing when it comes to cooking Italian food. My mum did the sauce the old-fashioned way and she taught my wife. And this is how Grace still cooks in the restaurant

[caption id="attachment_3754" align="aligncenter" width="500"] Tony and Arlene Hack with some of their 12-week-old calves.[/caption]

Living in fear of bovine TB has been a constant struggle for Ceredigion dairy farmer Tony Hack and his family over the past 18 months.

Tony, 49, whose roots lie in the Calabria region of Italy, runs Glasfryn farm, Rhydlewis, near Llandysul, with his wife 44-year-old Arlene. They have already suffered from the devastating effects of bTB after losing over 40 cattle to the disease.

Together with his cousin Tony Vasami and uncle Gino Vasami he runs 300 acres across the two family-owned farms - Glasfryn and Rhydgoch at nearby Ffostrasol.

Tony runs a dairy pedigree herd of 100 Holsteins and 25 pedigree Brown Swiss and Ayrshire cattle at Glasfryn and the 2,500 litres of milk produced daily are used for cheese production by Glanbia and at his cousin's Italian restaurant La Calabria, on the outskirts of Ffostrasol, for their home-made ice cream.

The higher fat content in the milk was achieved by introducing the Brown Swiss and Ayrshire cattle which guarantees an extra penny per litre of milk.

"We do all we can to top up the farm business income and this is why we are not chasing the liquid market," said Mr Hack. "We produce high fat content milk for cheese production, which guarantees an extra penny per litre of milk."

Mr Hack, who also has a full-time job as a breeding adviser for Semex, added: "With the constant threat of a bTB breakdown this extra income is vital.

"If you lose a good cow herd, you can't just replace them - it doesn't work like that. We have just had a clear bTB test and sincerely hope that the next test in 60 days' time will be clear as well.

"The Welsh Government really needs to take further action to control the badger population and eradicate bTB if they want to see family farms survive in the future."

The Hacks are planning on expanding their dairy herd and extending the flock of Charollais sheep once their son Steffan, 17, joins the family business next year after completing his agriculture course at Gelli Aur College.

"We want to expand the dairy herd once my son comes to join the family business but it's going to be hard if we keep losing cattle to bTB," said Mr Hack.

"I have been farming since I was 16 years old and farming has been in the family for generations. I am happy that my son wants to join the family farm business but unless the Welsh Government sorts out bTB I 'm afraid it's going to put a lot of youngsters off joining the industry."

The Farmers' Union of Wales today welcomed a Welsh Government's Wales Upland Forum report and its key recommendations into the future of Wales' uplands.

"Unlocking the Potential of the Uplands" reports on the current state of the Welsh uplands and makes recommendations about maintaining livestock production and other key industries which maintain the fabric of the majority of Wales' heartlands.

The report also recognises the central role agriculture plays in terms of the management of Wales' most precious ecosystems.

After the launch of the report in Llanelwedd, at which FUW president Emyr Jones spoke alongside deputy agriculture minister Alun Davies, Mr Jones said: "The publication of this report marks an important milestone and the FUW fully supports the key recommendations made by the forum.

"Our uplands represent not only a physical backbone to Wales, but also a cultural and economic backbone. Vast numbers rely on these areas economically, socially and, of course, for their recreation which itself brings economic benefits.

"The key industries in Wales' uplands are like the legs of a stool - if one of the legs is taken away, the whole lot will come crashing down."

Mr Jones commended the forum for rightly recognising farming as being one of those industries without which the uplands would "fall apart".

"The emphasis on the importance of maintaining food production and grazing livestock is welcome as is the proposal to introduce support in areas of natural constraint," Mr Jones added.

"We have always maintained that this is central to securing the sustainability of the uplands, and this is just one of a host of recommendations which we believe should be taken up in order to secure the future of our uplands and all the industries it supports.

"These recommendations are key to the backbone of Wales which holds us up economically, culturally and socially."

The Farmers' Union of Wales is warning farmers with areas of sole grazed common land to register links between their holdings and that land - or risk penalties for moving animals on their own farms.

The warning was issued today (Wednesday December 12) after a Welsh farmer was fined for moving animals between adjacent fields on his own farm.

The penalty, which brought to light a chance in policy regarding "CL99 land" not notified to the industry, has been branded by the FUW as "utterly ridiculous and irrational".

While the rules relating to movements of animals to and from common land were drafted with large areas of unfenced shared grazing in mind, many Welsh farms include normal fields registered as common land - for example, because of mapping errors - that are not shared with other farmers.

A previous common-sense approach by the Welsh Government meant such land was treated as part of the farm holding and there was no requirement to report or record movements of animals between registered and unregistered fields within a farm.

But the policy change means such movements must be recorded and reported, or a link between the fields notified to Welsh Government.

The change only came to light after former FUW Denbighshire county chairman Arthur Roberts received a major penalty for failing to report and record the movement of animals over an invisible legal boundary within his own farm, part of which is registered as common land.

"The fields on this farm are no different to those on any other except that part of the land is registered as common land for historical reasons," said Mr Roberts, who farms at Hafodty Bach, near Pentrefoelas.  "None of it is shared grazing and the land in question is just a stone's throw from the farmhouse.

"I could not believe it when we were penalised for a change in policy which meant we should have been sat in the field day and night recording the tag numbers of animals as they wondered across an invisible boundary, and reporting these movements to the authorities."

While Mr Roberts was partially successful in his Stage 1 appeal a penalty was still applied as the Welsh Government insists he should have registered a link between the fields.

"But the Welsh Government never informed the industry of this change. I have spoken to many others who have this type of land on their farms and they know nothing about this ridiculous rule.

"I fully understand why the rules exist for movements to and from shared grazing but to introduce this as a blanket rule to cover moves between normal fields is completely irrational. Common sense has gone completely out of the window.

"It means more paperwork for everyone, more risks of unfair penalties and it could actually compromise our ability to trace animal movements in the event of a disease outbreak because movements within a farm could show up in the database as movements to a separate holding."

FUW agricultural policy director Nick Fenwick said the policy went completely against the Welsh Government's "Working Smarter" agenda. "We are aware of many farms where fields or parts of fields are registered as common land, often due to mapping errors.

"They are known as CL99 areas and have caused numerous problems for years but we never imagined that the Welsh Government would start treating these areas as separate holdings for the purpose of movement recording and reporting.

"We have made numerous representations to the Welsh Government since March but they are adamant that they will not reverse the policy. We are currently seeking legal advice and have asked for an urgent meeting with the Chief Vet, but in the meantime farmers should register links with all common land which forms part of their holding.

"It sounds bonkers but it could be the only way of avoiding penalties."